"Eating is really one of your indoor sports. You play three times a day, and it's well worth while to make the game as pleasant as possible."
---Dorothy Draper
COOKIN
WITH LENNY’S SMOKEHOUSE
23360
Lake Manor Drive
Chatsworth,
CA 91311
818-348-8100
11:00
AM to 10:00 PM Tuesday through
Sunday
Finding Lenny’s, a couple of minutes west of Topanga
Canyon Boulevard, you feel that you have driven to the end of the world looking
for barbeque. It’s in the area above the
old Chatsworth Reservoir, now empty, in what is, by LA standards, a sparsely
populated area that still retains a rural feeling. You’re not much more than a mile away from
some of the highest rent neighborhoods in the West Valley. It’s a small, unassuming,
place so don’t go more than 30 miles per hour on the two lane road or you’ll
miss it. (And, you may just get a
ticket.) On the other hand, you can’t
miss it if you leave your window open…the smoker is right out in front.
The physical impression of the place is, well,
cowboy. It’s all knotty pine, tongue and
groove, paneling and wainscoting with stucco above and open beamed wooden
ceilings. The art on the walls is cowboy
movie posters, cowboy memorabilia, and cow horns with a few license plates
thrown in. The stated capacity of the
room is 45 and there are exactly 45 chairs in the room. For nice weather, which we have more often
than not, there is also a covered patio out back. There is also a setup for live music which is
provided by the staff. We were told that
they have to audition to work there.
We arrived at just the right time, about 6:00 PM on a Wednesday. They were just getting setup for the dinner
hour and there were no other customers in the place. Lenny’s Smokehouse menu has appetizers,
salads, seafood, and sandwiches as well as the que. In fact, the selection of que is fairly
limited. The only combos on the menu
were Family Feasts, feeding 4 to 6 people, which is a bit much for Sharon and I
to get our usual sample of the que.
Fortunately, Lenny serves a Duet of Ribs appetizer, a pair of whiskey
glazed ribs with roast garlic and pineapple, and a pair of raspberry-chipotle
baby back ribs, which allowed us to sample the ribs while ordering other single
entrée dishes. Sharon ordered a Smoked
Maple Chicken with Macaroni and Cheese for a side, and I ordered Carved Smoked
Tri-tip with Slow Cooked, seasoned Red Beans as my side dish. During our brief wait for our order other
people began to arrive for dinner. Even
though our food arrived promptly, the place began to fill up. We have been told by other people who have
been there that when Lenny’s is full, on a weekend night, the service is not so
prompt.
Raspberry-Chipotle Baby Back Ribs
Very meaty for baby back ribs, these have a good, but
somewhat different smoky flavor. There
is the sharpness of California red oak smoke but the mellowness of hickory
smoke. I get the impression that both
woods are used in the smoking. The glaze
is a bit peppery as is most of the food here.
It seems that Lenny, an actual TV star chef, has a Cajun background.
Whisky Glazed Ribs with Garlic and Pineapple
This is another way to make very meaty ribs with a smoky,
peppery, but very savory flavor. Eating Lenny’s
ribs is worth coming out here.
Smoked Maple Chicken
This is a generous half chicken that has a good smoky
flavor. The maple glaze manages to have
a slight bite to it. Our only slight fault
to the chicken was that it seemed to be a bit dry, The leftovers passed the kitty test.
Carved Smoked Tri-tip
This is a strange way to serve tri-tip. It seems to be marinated, in a rather peppery
rub, before being smoked. Then, it is
served with sautéed peppers and onions.
This is something way out of Sharon’s range of taste, but it certainly
was tender and flavorful and I rather liked it.
Macaroni and cheese
For a side it was a generous serving of a nice, al dente,
penne pasta mixed into a cheese sauce that seems to have more than one
cheese. This is the one thing we tried
that didn’t have a Cajun pepperiness to it.
Sharon is partial to macaroni and cheese presentations with the pasta
simply mixed into a cheese sauce and rather liked it. I prefer a baked macaroni and cheese, but
this was not bad…not the best I’ve had, but not bad. It was even good nuked as a leftover.
Slow Cooked, seasoned Red Beans
Another generous serving for a side, this is a simple preparation
of red beans in a, guess what, peppery sauce.
Don’t get me wrong, this is not a bad serving of beans, they are not
overcooked, overwhelmed by green peppers, or cloyingly sweet, our most frequent
complaints about beans. They are simply
a good complement to the meat.
Lenny’s is not one of those places that people who don’t
like the Cajun overtones to the seasoning will like. Sharon, allergic to peppers, has to work at
it a bit, but can still find things to eat here and she likes it. I think that I will probably make the trip out
to the west end of the Valley myself. Be
aware that it small and can be crowded on weekends. Most people will find it an experience and a
little gem. We rate it an eight.
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