Sunday, November 11, 2012

Ribs USA


“The way you cut your meat reflects the way you live.”

---Confucius


RIBS USA

2711 West Olive Avenue

Burbank, CA 91505

818-841-8872

818-841-6769 FAX

11:00 AM to 9:00 PM     Monday – Thursday, Sunday

11:00 AM to 10:00 PM   Friday – Saturday



Dining here could give you a new slant on life.  Which way depends on which side of the table you are sitting on.  It looks as though the dine-in area of Ribs USA was originally an open air, covered patio and the concrete floor slants for drainage.  When you walk in you are facing the take out counter at the end of the kitchen.  The dine-in area is through a door to the right.  There is a mixture of tables and site-built, plywood booths.  When we slid into our booth the server cautioned us, I think only half in jest, to watch for splinters.  A few neon beer advertising signs are the only concession to any kind of barbeque joint style.  The dining room has a self-service drink dispenser and a non-self-service bar that serves beer and wine.  They used to have a self-service peanut bin, but that is gone.  In fact, the first thing we noticed when we entered was that there were no peanut shells on the floor.  There are fewer places doing the peanut appetizer thing these days, we suspect because one slip and fall suit could ruin your standing with your insurance company.

Our server, Donna, came promptly and cheerfully took our order.  If you don’t order beer or wine the response to your drink order to present you with a plastic cup.  The menu is both sides of a page laminated in plastic.  One side has the burgers, sandwiches, salads and fries and the other the barbeque.  It exhibits a certain amount of humor.  One of the rib specials, a pound of rib tips with sides, is called “Glad It’s Knight & the Tips”.  They have no dessert items on the menu.  Combos are selected using the “Chinese Restaurant Method”, using Column A and Column B. To get our selection we chose a Column A combo of Baby Back Ribs, and Tri-Tip with BBQ Baked Beans, Macaroni and Cheese and Garlic Bread.  The Column B combo was BBQ Chicken and Pulled Pork with sides of Cole Slaw, Collard Greens and a Corn Muffin.  I also ordered an a la carte Hot Link and Potato Salad.  The Garlic Bread and Corn Muffins arrived first.  The rest of the food arrived in quickly and in surprisingly large quantities.  This is another one of those places where you have to be specific about ordering the sauce on the side if you really want to taste the meat before it is sauced.  Otherwise, the meat arrives covered with a quite pleasant, sweet, tangy sauce that obscures the true flavor of the meat.  Don’t get me wrong, this sauce is good applied sparingly.

Garlic Bread

We’ll start here since this arrived first.  There is nothing spectacular about this version of garlic bread.   A sandwich roll was sliced lengthwise, the two halves were spread with garlic butter and it was put under a broiler or a salamander.  This was then cut crosswise into several pieces and put on a plate.  Let’s just say that presentation is very basic here.  Simple as it was it tasted good, and more importantly to Sharon, not burned.

Corn Muffins

Two warm muffins were presented on a plate with a couple of sealed butter pats.  I think they actually make these here, but I suspect they are from a mix.  They are sweet and reasonably moist, but quite crumbly and don’t stand up to the butter.  When warm, Sharon found them to have a slightly fishy aftertaste.  Cold they were acceptable…just.

Macaroni and Cheese

This was unacceptable.  The pasta was mushy and the cheese sauce was mealy and bland.  I suspect that this may have been a bottom of the batch situation similar to that at the Swingn’ Door last week.  It was definitely over cooked or over baked.   

BBQ Beans

They were the conventional baked beans in a sweet tomato based sauce that reminded Sharon of the Campbell’s baked beans of her childhood and every picnic you’ve ever been to.  Okay, but we’ve definitely had better and more innovative versions.

Collard Greens

I don’t know how they do these greens, but these were just plain nasty.  Preparations like this are what turns people off of greens.  They were undercooked and the seasoning was indifferent.  Perhaps made by someone who has no idea what authentic greens are supposed to taste like.

Cole Slaw

This was a competent, conventional, creamy dressing cabbage and carrot slaw.  It was not too wet and quite acceptable.  It is not exceptional, but probably goes well on a pulled pork sandwich and is worth taking any leftover home.

Potato Salad

Another potato salad that is basic, simple, competently done, but doesn’t attempt any new culinary heights.  It is also worth taking any leftover home.

BBQ Chicken

This portion was half of a quite plump chicken with noticeable grill marks on the skin.   It was done right, moist and tender, with a subtly smoke flavor.  The flavor is so subtle that you can’t really tell what kind of wood or wood chips they used.   I had the feeling that it was done in a restaurant style smoking cabinet with a pan of wood chips in the bottom.  Nothing here tastes like it was done in a real, wood fired, smoker.  This is not a negative for this chicken.  One of their entrée selections is a Half BBQ Chicken with two sides and garlic bread or corn muffin.  I can see coming here just for that entrée with Cole Slaw, Potato Salad and Garlic Bread.

Baby Back Ribs

We have often said that Baby Back Ribs should not disappoint.  Unfortunately, these do.  They are reasonably meaty, and while not falling-off-the-bone tender are tender to the tooth.  The flavor is lacking, with only the barest hint of smoke and way too bland to stand up to the sauce.  They may have been par-boiled before going into the smoker.  This isn’t what you expect from a place that has Ribs in their name.

Tri-Tip

I say that it’s hard to mess up a good piece of tri-tip and this is one of those that proves the point.  It’s a good piece of meat, reasonably juicy and the slices are thick enough but suspiciously have grill marks on the side.  The feeling you get is that it’s grilled tri-tip with barbecue sauce on it.  It’s tasty, certainly edible, but just doesn’t seem to be barbecue.

Pulled Pork

I’ve had Memphis pulled pork, Georgia pulled pork, and Texas pulled pork so I have certain expectations of pulled pork.  If I had been told that I was getting Carnitas and not Pulled Pork I would have thought this was pretty good but lacking even the traditional citrus, herbs and spices expected of authentic carnitas.  Enough said.

Hot Link

This is an average commercial hot link that was sliced lengthwise and grilled, then covered with sauce.  It has a decent blend of spices with a slight after bite, and while not a tonsil scorcher, you will feel it on the tongue.  This particular link was a tad over grilled and was a bit dry.

I’ve been told that when this place first opened it was “Robbie’s Rib Cage”.  Those who have been around in Burbank long enough to remember it say that it was better as Robbie’s then it has been since Ribs USA  took over.  There seems to have been some changes in management under Ribs USA.  We have been here a few times in the last several years and the quality of the que has had its ups and downs.  Last night was one of the downs.  The staff here is cheerful and quick.  We just think that the que should be exceptional with a name like Ribs USA.  It’s edible but just average.  Unless we are with someone who insists on going there we will probably not be back.  We give it a five.

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