Monday, December 9, 2013

A Tale of Two Turkeys


“Wow!  This is the best turkey I’ve ever had.  I didn’t know that turkey breast didn’t have to be dry.”

--- One of the guests at our last Thanksgiving dinner

 

A TALE OF TWO TURKEYS

Every once and a while you have to do something yourself.  Barbeque is no exception.  Now, I am certainly not a competitive barbeque chef, but for the last twenty years, or so, I have been barbequing very well received turkeys in a Weber Kettle®.   There is no great secret to this.  I simply thaw a frozen Butterball® turkey, oil it up, loosely stuff it with a chopped onion, garlic and fresh herbs, and do it, by the numbers, just the way the instruction book says.  Admittedly there are a couple of tricks.  I use natural lump charcoal, (mesquite is what’s easily available in this area,) and Jack Daniels® Whiskey Barrel smoke chips.  They come out golden, moist and tasty every time. 

Family tradition dictates that I barbeque one of the Thanksgiving turkeys.  This year I did both of them.  In thanks for handling some family business my siblings gifted me a Big Green Egg®.  I had seen them at some high end kitchen appliance stores, but had never paid much attention to them.  I didn’t even know that they are considerably different from the Weber Kettle®.  My first clue to the difference was when the delivery driver took the box off the truck with a small fork lift.  This thing is heavy. 

After it was dollied back to its position on my patio I opened the box and discovered that it was made of ceramics.  It consists of a glazed bottom shell into which you insert a ceramic fire box with a fire ceramic ring on top of that to support the grill.  The glazed top shell has a spring counter balanced steel hinge for opening which is attached to both shells with steel clamp bands.  The whole thing is supported on a heavy, sturdy steel stand with wheels.  None of the individual parts were too heavy for my wife and me to lift together, so we easily assembled it.

Well, maybe not that easily.  Some years back my automotive tool box was stolen from my car.  Among the contents was my torque wrench.  Shortly thereafter my wife and I bought Subaru cars, which are completely electronic (They don’t even have distributors!) and I stopped working on cars, so I never replaced the torque wrench.  The instructions for attaching the hinge clamps on the Big Green Egg had several torque callouts.  (Yes, I do read the instructions before assembling something.  When all else fails, read the instructions.)  Since the shells are ceramic it’s easy to see why they emphasize the torque settings on the clamp bolts for the straps.  You don’t want to crack anything.  Anyway, I am once again the owner of a torque wrench.

Now that I had it together I had to learn to use it.  Basically, you fill the fire box with natural lump charcoal, (Never use briquettes in one of these.), and light it off.  Once the fire is built you control it with the upper and lower vents.  There is a thermometer that pokes through the top shell to make this task more precise.  Since the whole thing is ceramic, the mass of it retains heat which probably makes it more economical of charcoal since you can build the fire in it, heat the whole thing up, and keep the temperature controlled for hours.  Oddly, the Egg did not come with an instruction manual other than for assembly and safety procedures.  I had to download the cooking instructions from their web site.   I started with a nice roasting chicken for practice.  The chicken takes longer per pound than a turkey.  This may have something to do with the ratio of cavity to meat…the turkey is less dense.  I discovered that it is difficult to control the temperature in my egg below 300 degrees.  This is fine for poultry, cuts of meat that do not require long slow smoking, and things that require higher temperatures like pizzas, but might be problematical for ribs, or brisket.  I only had a couple of weeks to practice, but I felt ready for Thanksgiving.

We had 22 people coming for dinner so we got two 14 pound birds.  Sharon decided to make a spice and herb rub and a cranberry barbeque sauce for the bird done in the Egg.  The rub goes under the skin of the bird.  The sauce goes on the last 15 minutes of cooking.  I decided to use cherry wood smoke chips with this bird.  I started the fire about 45 minutes before the turkey went in to make sure I had control of the temperature which was 325 degrees (F).  The turkey was supported in a V-roasting rack sitting on a grill rack that was atop a shallow roasting pan that was on the grill.  I had the Egg positioned on the patio near one of the den windows so I could check the thermometer without going outside.  The Big Green Egg® does not require as much fire tending as the Weber Kettle®.

The bird in the Weber Kettle® was done in the usual way using the indirect heat method with the two side holders for the charcoal and a drip pan between them under the grill directly under the bird.  This requires fire tending every half-hour since the charcoal holders are small. 

With both birds I started checking the breast and thighs with an instant read thermometer about an hour before they were scheduled to come out to make sure that they were done just right.  They both came out on schedule and were taken inside and tented with foil for a half hour to get firm enough for carving.  Both birds were moist and juicy, and I can’t say that the one done in the Egg was any better than the one done in the kettle.   Twenty-two people devoured 28 pounds of turkey, not to mention all the other things on the menu.  There were almost no leftovers, just enough for a sandwich, a turkey burrito (I live in California, get over it!) and a few tidbits for the cats.  If I had to give my own barbequed turkey a rating it would be a 10.

Here’s the complete menu:

               A Down Home Thanksgiving

                                               Appetizers

Artisan Cheeses                   Soft Pretzels

Other temptations

 

Main Course

Sage and Thyme Smoked Turkey             Cranberry Barbequed Turkey

Mashed Potatoes and Gravy               Sea Salt Sweet Potatoes

Mac and Cheese Cupcakes

Peanut Coleslaw                   Green Beans Gremolata

Baking Powder Biscuits     Rosemary Olive Corn Bread

 

Desserts

Pumpkin Pie             Apple Pie            Pecan Pie

Assorted Cookies